Investing in a side by side roof rack is honestly the smartest move you can make if you're tired of tripping over coolers and gear bags every time you hop into your rig. Let's be real, while UTVs are getting bigger and more powerful every year, the actual storage space inside the cabin is still pretty pathetic. You've got a tiny glove box, maybe some under-seat storage if you're lucky, and a bed that gets crowded the second you throw a spare tire in there.
If you're planning on doing anything more than a twenty-minute loop around the local park, you need a place to put your stuff. Whether it's recovery gear, extra fuel, or just a lunch that doesn't get crushed by a floor jack, moving that weight up to the roof frees up the rest of the vehicle for what it was meant for: driving comfortably.
Why a Side by Side Roof Rack Changes the Game
Most people don't realize how much a roof rack changes the utility of their machine until they actually have one bolted on. It's not just about "more space," it's about organization. When you're out on the trail and someone gets a flat or gets stuck in a mud hole, you don't want to be digging through a pile of random bags in the bed to find your tow strap.
A good side by side roof rack gives you a dedicated platform. You can strap your traction boards to the side, mount your high-lift jack across the back, and keep your dry bags right in the middle. It also opens up the possibility for overnight trips. If you've ever looked at those guys doing "overlanding" in their UTVs and wondered how they fit a tent and cooking gear, the secret is almost always the roof.
Plus, there's the lighting aspect. Most racks come with built-in tabs or channels for light bars and pods. Instead of trying to find a spot on the plastic visor or the roll cage where a light won't glare off the hood, you can tuck everything neatly into the front of the rack. It looks cleaner and usually performs a lot better.
Picking the Right Material for Your Setup
When you start shopping, you're basically going to see two options: aluminum or steel. Each has its own crowd of die-hard fans, but for a side by side roof rack, I usually lean toward aluminum, and here's why.
UTVs already have a high center of gravity. When you start bolting heavy stuff to the highest point of the vehicle (the roof), you're making the machine more prone to tipping in off-camber situations. Steel is tough as nails, but it's heavy. If you go with a heavy steel rack and then load it down with 100 pounds of gear, you're going to feel that sway in the corners.
Aluminum racks are significantly lighter. They might cost a bit more upfront, but they won't rust when the powder coating inevitably gets scratched by a low-hanging branch. That's a huge plus if you live somewhere wet or do a lot of creek crossings. However, if you're a hardcore rock crawler and you know you're going to be scraping that rack against canyon walls, the sheer strength of steel might be worth the extra weight.
Low-Profile vs. High-Capacity Baskets
You've got a choice to make regarding the "look" and functionality of the rack. Some people prefer a low-profile flat rack. These look sleek, don't add much height to the machine (which is great if you have a low garage door), and are incredibly versatile because you can bolt things anywhere on the slats.
On the other hand, you have the "basket" style racks. These have raised sides, usually three or four inches high. These are great because you can basically just throw a bag up there and strap it down without worrying about it sliding off the side while you're getting the straps tight. The downside is that they catch more wind when you're trailering your UTV at 70 mph down the highway, and they can be a bit noisier.
If you plan on mounting a rooftop tent or very long items like ladders or lumber (if you're using your UTV for work), the flat, low-profile side by side roof rack is the way to go. If you just want a place to throw a cooler and a gear bag, the basket style is much more user-friendly.
Thinking About the Install Process
Nobody wants to spend an entire Saturday drilling holes into their expensive roll cage. Most modern racks are designed to be "bolt-on," meaning they use clamps that wrap around the factory roll bars. This is the gold standard because it doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the cage.
Before you buy, check how the rack attaches. Some cheaper options might require you to drill through the roof skin or even the cage itself. Personally, I'd stay away from those. A good side by side roof rack should utilize the existing geometry of the vehicle.
Also, consider the "rattle factor." Off-roading is noisy enough as it is. You don't want a rack that squeaks every time the chassis flexes. Look for racks that use rubber isolators or have very solid mounting hardware. If the reviews mention that the rack sounds like a "box of bolts" on the trail, keep looking.
Making Sure it Fits Your Specific Rig
This sounds obvious, but you have to make sure the rack is compatible with your specific make and model. A rack designed for a Polaris RZR XP 1000 isn't going to fit a Can-Am Maverick X3. The widths are different, the cage angles are different, and the mounting points won't line up.
One thing to watch out for is compatibility with other accessories you already have. For example, if you have a full glass windshield or a rear headache rack, some roof racks might interfere with the clamps. Most manufacturers are pretty good about stating what their racks will and won't work with, but it's always worth double-checking the forums or asking the company directly before you pull the trigger.
Essential Add-Ons to Consider
Once you have your side by side roof rack installed, the fun really starts because now you can customize it. I'm a big fan of "molle" panels on the sides of the rack. These allow you to attach small pouches for tools or even mount things like a fire extinguisher where it's easily accessible from outside the cab.
Tie-down points are another big one. Don't just rely on the bars of the rack. Investing in some high-quality rachet straps or even "bungee nets" designed for UTV racks will save you a lot of headache. There's nothing worse than seeing your expensive cooler bouncing down a trail in your rearview mirror because a cheap strap snapped.
And let's talk about fuel. Most UTVs don't have the greatest range. Having a dedicated mount on your roof rack for a RotopaX or similar fuel container can literally be the difference between making it back to camp and spent a cold night in the woods.
Living with Your New Rack Day-to-Day
There are a couple of things no one tells you about having a side by side roof rack until you've lived with it for a while. First, you're going to have to be more careful about low-hanging branches. You might have been able to squeeze under that fallen tree before, but now you've got an extra six to ten inches of height.
Second, washing your UTV becomes a bit more of a chore. Mud loves to get trapped between the roof of the machine and the bottom of the rack. You'll need a pressure washer or a long-handled brush to really get in there and keep things clean. If you leave mud sitting in there, it can eventually lead to corrosion, even on treated surfaces.
But honestly? Those are tiny trade-offs. The first time you go on a group ride and you're the only one who didn't have to leave their spare tire behind because you ran out of room, you'll know it was worth every penny. It turns your UTV from a simple trail toy into a legitimate adventure machine that's ready for anything.
So, if you're still on the fence, just go for it. Whether you go for a sleek aluminum slab or a beefy steel basket, a side by side roof rack is one of those upgrades you'll wonder how you ever lived without. It makes the whole experience of being out in the wild much more organized and way less stressful. Just make sure you tighten those bolts after the first ride, and you'll be good to go.